It was a beautiful morning and the colors of the sand and water were muted from the clouds diffusing the early morning light.
The waves were more powerful than yesterday and I was reminded of that fact each time a wave threw me over the side of my board. On one of my many pearls, I was slammed into the sandbar, with my shoulder and face taking the brunt of it. When the side of my face hit the bar, I think it did something to my ear because it’s been a little stopped up ever since. Come to think of it, was noticeably tender when I was washing the sand out in the shower afterward…
This happened after an hour straight of getting my A handed to me with one pearl after another, and in the ruckus of the face-plant experience, I of course lost my hat and glasses. Just incase pearling wasn’t annoying enough, my hat and glasses came off each time I was pitched over the front of the board or fell off the back of it.
Yeah, that’s super fun scurrying around trying to find anti-pterygium gear in the white water.
After my 78th pearl, I finally took the hint. So I paddled into the white water for a while and caught the waves after they broke on the bar. Finally, I started having some rides. They weren’t thrilling drop-ins but it was better than the alternative.
A guy from Chicago came out and he didn’t have luck either. The waves were such that they didn’t have enough power for us to get in front of them, so when we moved closer to the sandbar, they’d pitch up so fast that they’d throw us off our boards within a second.
So I just surfed the white water for a while and I was just happy to be riding.
Maybe the waves will be better this afternoon.