So the surf this morning was a little deceiving. It was plenty clean and bigger than yesterday when I arrived, but there was no power behind the waves.
In over an hour’s worth of attempts, I caught zero waves, got pitched over several, was hit in the back with my board, and mostly worked my arse off, only to watch the waves roll on without me.
To make things worse, there was a group of guys watching from their balcony for a while. I of course wanted to prove that girls can surf too – I know, I know, but it comes from being a little sister. I’ve always felt that I need to show I’m worth my salt.
I think it’s from not wanting to be left behind by my brothers and their friends who were always doing something cool: building forts, climbing trees, jumping the creek.
That sort of stuff was way more fun to me than playing with Barbies. So I learned early on that if I wanted to be included, I need be able to do what they were doing.
Unfortunately I proved nothing of the sort today. The only thing I showed those guys was that I could get nailed by my board and be dumb enough to keep trying.
After an hour, I threw in the towel but I have to say, the experience wasn’t totally lost. I was wearing my IST dive skin for the first time and I really liked it.
It looks like a wetsuit but it’s not meant to keep you warm; it’s just to protect you from “marine life” (read: jellyfish). More than that, it keeps the sun off so I didn’t have to go through half a gallon of sunscreen.
Good thing I had it on because I saw a few jellies in the lineup and one looked nice and purple-y. Man of war, anyone?
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