This was my last time out on the board before packing it in for home and I was determined to not leave empty handed.
When I finally got my lineup right, moved back a skosh on the board, dug as hard as possible with each paddle, I caught a beautiful wave after a solid drop in. I was excited enough not to care as I clasped my hands, looking up to the heavens thanking them for giving me this one.
It wasn’t until a while after the sun had set that I finally let a wave push me all the way into the beach. As I was walking the half mile back to my villa, I passed a group packing up. Continue reading