Remember going to the water park as a kid and wishing you never had to leave? Today was one of those days…only we’re not children, and we weren’t at a water park precisely.
This was my last time out on the board before packing it in for home and I was determined to not leave empty handed.
When I finally got my lineup right, moved back a skosh on the board, dug as hard as possible with each paddle, I caught a beautiful wave after a solid drop in. I was excited enough not to care as I clasped my hands, looking up to the heavens thanking them for giving me this one.
It wasn’t until a while after the sun had set that I finally let a wave push me all the way into the beach. As I was walking the half mile back to my villa, I passed a group packing up. Continue reading
It was a beautiful morning and the colors of the sand and water were muted from the clouds diffusing the early morning light.
The waves were more powerful than yesterday and I was reminded of that fact each time a wave threw me over the side of my board. On one of my many pearls, I was slammed into the sandbar, with my shoulder and face taking the brunt of it. When the side of my face hit the bar, I think it did something to my ear because it’s been a little stopped up ever since. Come to think of it, was noticeably tender when I was washing the sand out in the shower afterward… Continue reading
So the surf this morning was a little deceiving. It was plenty clean and bigger than yesterday when I arrived, but there was no power behind the waves.
In over an hour’s worth of attempts, I caught zero waves, got pitched over several, was hit in the back with my board, and mostly worked my arse off, only to watch the waves roll on without me.
I just finished breakfast on my balcony. Watching the sets roll in, I enjoyed my new favorite cereal (Optimum Power Cinnamon Blueberry) Seriously, it’s life changing.
When I woke up, I didn’t even have to get out of bed to check the surf; all I had to do was look out my sliding glass door:
I slept with the door open so I could hear the waves and the wind blowing through the top of the palm tree that reaches just to my balcony. The winds started to pick up yesterday evening after I came in from surfing and they’ve been going ever since.
I’m here! I’m here! I’m here! I’ve arrived to my home for the next three days – the Seagrove Villas Motel.
So…I’m not exactly staying in one of these cute little cottages, mine is more of an “efficiency condo.” However, I’m on the 3rd floor of the three-story building across the courtyard from these precious little bungalows, and my view of the gulf is AMAZING.
Sooo…today wasn’t so good. I just think the stars were aligned (against me) and I maybe should have stayed home.
I was already having a tough time walking because I cut my foot on a shell a few days ago when I jumped off my board (I know, I know, I “really shouldn’t do that”). In spite of my aggressive cleaning regimen of hydrogen peroxide and Neosporin, it has still managed to get infected.
So I was already battling that delightful reality when we walked over the dunes to the beach and saw the seriously dumpy waves. Maybe it’s the hurricane in the Yucatan, but whatever it is, the waves are super dumpy right now.
I think I just had the best ride of my life.
Hurricane Lee was making its way up to Louisiana when we started getting a swell last Thursday. Many surfers traveled over from the east coast to take advantage of the swell, as the waves were reported at 10-13 feet (what we call “double overhead” in the biz).
Definitely two of the cutest children on this earth are the son and daughter of our lucky coworker Jason.
He and his wife have been told that they should just “make children for people” – and you’ll know why once you see a clip of their children surfing (and after you get past the whole creepiness factor of that idea).
Ted has had quite a bit of experience teaching kids to surf by teaching both of his children, not to mention me – essentially a child when I’m not having a good surf session. So Jason asked us if we’d be willing to take his 7-year-old daughter out with us one morning before work.
I’m getting more and more settled into my shortboard popup and we’ve been getting some great footage with the GoPro.
This morning was just one of those mornings when we didn’t have high expectations (the first step to happiness) and all we wanted was a ride or two before we started our day.