MaureenDempsey.me
So the surf this morning was a little deceiving. It was plenty clean and bigger than yesterday when I arrived, but there was no power behind the waves.
In over an hour’s worth of attempts, I caught zero waves, got pitched over several, was hit in the back with my board, and mostly worked my arse off, only to watch the waves roll on without me.
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I just finished breakfast on my balcony. Watching the sets roll in, I enjoyed my new favorite cereal (Optimum Power Cinnamon Blueberry) Seriously, it’s life changing.
When I woke up, I didn’t even have to get out of bed to check the surf; all I had to do was look out my sliding glass door:
I slept with the door open so I could hear the waves and the wind blowing through the top of the palm tree that reaches just to my balcony. The winds started to pick up yesterday evening after I came in from surfing and they’ve been going ever since.
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I’m here! I’m here! I’m here! I’ve arrived to my home for the next three days – the Seagrove Villas Motel.
The Seagrove Villas Motel – built in 1952
photo credit: www.sowal.com
So…I’m not exactly staying in one of these cute little cottages, mine is more of an “efficiency condo.” However, I’m on the 3rd floor of the three-story building across the courtyard from these precious little bungalows, and my view of the gulf is AMAZING.
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Sooo…today wasn’t so good. I just think the stars were aligned (against me) and I maybe should have stayed home.
I was already having a tough time walking because I cut my foot on a shell a few days ago when I jumped off my board (I know, I know, I “really shouldn’t do that”). In spite of my aggressive cleaning regimen of hydrogen peroxide and Neosporin, it has still managed to get infected.
So I was already battling that delightful reality when we walked over the dunes to the beach and saw the seriously dumpy waves. Maybe it’s the hurricane in the Yucatan, but whatever it is, the waves are super dumpy right now.
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I think I just had the best ride of my life.
Hurricane Lee was making its way up to Louisiana when we started getting a swell last Thursday. Many surfers traveled over from the east coast to take advantage of the swell, as the waves were reported at 10-13 feet (what we call “double overhead” in the biz).
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Definitely two of the cutest children on this earth are the son and daughter of our lucky coworker Jason.
He and his wife have been told that they should just “make children for people” – and you’ll know why once you see a clip of their children surfing (and after you get past the whole creepiness factor of that idea).
Ted has had quite a bit of experience teaching kids to surf by teaching both of his children, not to mention me – essentially a child when I’m not having a good surf session. So Jason asked us if we’d be willing to take his 7-year-old daughter out with us one morning before work.
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I’m getting more and more settled into my shortboard popup and we’ve been getting some great footage with the GoPro.
This morning was just one of those mornings when we didn’t have high expectations (the first step to happiness) and all we wanted was a ride or two before we started our day.
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The lead for my project at work takes our group out on his boat every year as a little team building opportunity. We always anchor on the bay side of Shell Island and spend our time playing around the boat. Probably one of the more riveting games is throwing the football in waist-deep water while avoiding the sea urchins.
So back in the winter, I started noticing a fleshy spot in the corner of my eye that would get red when I’d spend too much time on the computer. When it didn’t go away (and when my coworkers were telling me with increased frequency that I looked tired), I figured I’d make an appointment with an ophthalmologist.
“It looks like you have a pterygium,” the doctor told me. That doesn’t sound good. “What exactly is a pterygium?”
The answer: a noncancerous growth, common in light-eyed people who spend a lot of time outdoors, particularly on the water.
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Ted and I are the proud new owners of some of the coolest advancement in recreational technology: a GoPro.
These little puppies are high-definition video cameras that can be mounted to a borage of things like helmets (to capture skiing, skydiving, or anything else that requires a helmet), bikes, boats, but most importantly, surfboards.
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